Monday, 1 September 2014

Eudon Choi

If I have to tell you one of my flaw is that I often write when something lit the spark, I make few adjustments and then I publish it. I hate spending too much time or several sessions on one article otherwise I lose the mood that I was trying to insert in these words. So whenever I do not write during a period, it is because I did not have that little thing that makes me write article in one go. Today I came across something very interesting, that lit the spark and that caught my attention, the work of Eudon Choi, a Korean designer based in London. After a small start in 2010 thanks to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award at the LFW and by invitation by Anna Winter at the Milan Fashion Week, he is now well on his way to achieve something admirable.

Whatever you will think when you will see his collections, he is Korean and his work is well soaked by that. The clean cuts, the formal patterns, this idea of a lustful minimalism and this touch of crazy opulence make the Korean fashion so appreciated. Tidy outfits on the catwalk, reflecting this well-organised mind of his and the inspiration from menswear, Eudon Choi did not have to wait too long before being respected as a true challenger in the fashion world. I would be delighted to see him working on a collection for men, would it be the same inspiration or will we see more of this vintage aspect on a man's silhouette? Here are my three favourites outfits from his past collections. I have been seduced by this use of old styled garments such as the uniform and the dress we can see in his collection, brought back to life in this new century with a modern Korean touch.

Style 1 // Style 2 // Style 3

Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Winter is coming

Red Gauntlets by Dolce & Gabbana
Take a deep breath, and there you are, back in the XIIIth century. A cold winter is coming, one of these, where you have to wear enough layers in order to survive, to lead on the war you started centuries ago. Winter is coming and this garrison dressed by Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana, is not here to boast. Bearing their believes on them, they walk straight forward to show their persistence and determination. Inspired by this settings, where the Church was the most famous Department Store, the orders were only their confederates, Dolce & Gabbana made this holy spirit alive once again. Saints and Knights on a delicious architecture are, here, designed like stained glass, beaming their desires of conquest. Few oversize sweaters along the well fitted pieces, describe perfectly this Italian sense of perfection in the man's silhouette. This dark display comes across what we saw in their previous (recent) collections, only the snow were missing to dive the assembly into the deepest era of mankind, Middle Age. Dark colours are well chosen, the luxurious green is only here to remind to the people the ostentation life of powerful men at that time, tainted by this crimson red, as a shadow of sins covering their lost souls. The theme along the show can be seen as ironic, a light refreshment from the court, brought by trouvères and troubadours, as a parade to show off the power of this garrison.
Dolce & Gabbana mastered this collection through details, to soften the collection, they designed some fabulous accessories, especially gloves and slippers. This second party of the show take the audience back down to its chair, cosy and safe, to imitate the lords, hidden in their castles, next to the fire to keep them alive.

Style 1 // Style 2 // Style 3

Wednesday, 30 July 2014

阿部千登勢 - Chitose Abe

Today I wanted to present you a designer that I really like, Chitose Abe, born in 1965, she started at Comme des Garçons with Junya Watanbe and worked along Rei Kawakubo until 1998 when she decided to set up her own label, Tokyo based - Sacai. She does what she wants, that is what I like the most, like Thom Browne or CDG, those few designers are doing what they like, following their instincts and own tastes rather than a trend.

Chitose says that she designs with her mood and follows it along the process of making her collections. Through her clothes she wants us to feel happy, rich in emotions, selling a piece of garment is one thing, selling emotions is another. Since 16 years in business now, with her own label Sacai, she is under the spotlight with a very sharp mind, doing what she wants, offering her a fresh freedom on the catwalk rather than showing another commun collection which will go with the perfect trend analysis done by StyleSight or WGSN. I share with you three styles of her last collections that I really like the most and whatever she says about her Japanese inspiration, I do believe we can feel that Japanese touch through her collection. This lightness in the design and fabric, even if it is a winter look with a heavy coat, there is this calming feeling of perfection, making you feel at ease and warm.

Style 1 // Style 2 // Style 3

Tuesday, 29 April 2014

Thom Browne Fall 2014/15 - The Deepest Fantasy

As the Fall is approaching and the light is fading away, the setting around this double-act play by Thom Browne was perfect. Separated into two distinct sides; the Animal Kingdom and the Nobles; the hunter and the hunted. This play was a disturbing parade. The first part was the animals in multiple shades of grey, walking around the squared-park, all grey. The garments were all messy with topstitched seams, to reflect the wild and raw nature of the animals in front of the spectators. The prey was being watched alongside a delightful Prologue by Alexandre Desplat, carrying us away to a wonderland emphasised by the elephant’s head with a well-known similarity. The head of Cthulhu, who is a "source of constant anxiety for mankind at a subconscious level", here, genuinely transplanted into the animals’s mind.

The second part; the Nobles, blowing hard with their magnificent outfits, on a military rhythm along the Rendez Vous by the same compositor as the prologue. Like a milice showing off their weapons and armour before running after their prey. Bearing an imposing silhouette, with a oak-leaves camouflage covering the faces and almost all of the outfits, intertwining a royal tapestry and the colours of Alice in her wonderland. This surreal catwalk, is a great representation of the mankind's mind. The perception of our surroundings is always a matter of apprehension, here the dominance claimed by the hunters are nothing less than a mask, a mask of fantasy, a bleak fantasy of superciliousness.

Friday, 25 April 2014

コム・デ・ギャルソン SS14

Designed by Rei Kawakubo, this new collection from Comme des Garçons is the result of the house, unstructured and totally apart form the human body. Sometimes you can feel an harmony with the body like a symbiosis but not on this catwalk. Each outfit is only carried by a model and there is no accord, the model is like a prisoner, like a doll from her dress. At some points she reminds me of Thom Browne, they both don't really think about ease and "wearability", they just do what they like, what they think about how to achieve what they want to show. This is a huge advantage that Rei holds, because she does not play with the whole marketing and trendy thing that remains outside the catwalk and in the street, she does not play with money. Of course she mades loads of money, but like an artist she will do her job first and see after that if it works like she thought it would, and like an accomplished artist it will work perfectly. Therefore she did not follow the trend of printed jumpers which invaded the catwalk since at least two years by now, and I am quite happy with that because we need some defiant, who will not give in just because of the greedy marketing aspect of the "brand", and who will carry on the arty way of thinking of the designers.

Créé par Rei Kawakubo, cette nouvelle collection de Comme Des Garçons n'est que la suite logique de cette maison, dé-structurée et complètement mise à part du corps humain. Parfois il nous arrive de sentir une harmonie entre le corps et la tenue comme une symbiose mais pas dans ce défilé. Chaque tenue est portée par le mannequin et il n'y a pas d'accord, le mannequin est comme prisonnière, un peu comme une poupée de sa robe. Quelque part, elle me rappelle Thom Browne, tous deux ne pensent pas vraiment aux termes d'aisance et de "portabilité", ils ne font juste que ce qu'ils aiment, ce qu'ils pensent afin de pouvoir obtenir ce qu'ils souhaitent montrer. C'est un énorme avantage que Rei garde, parce que elle ne joue pas avec l'aspect marketing et les tendances qui restent dans la rue et en dehors du défilé, elle ne joue pas avec l'argent. Bien sûr elle en engrange énormément, mais comme un artiste elle va d'abord faire son boulot en premier et observera les conséquences après, et tout comme un artiste accompli ça marchera. De ce fait, elle n'a pas suivi les tendances des imprimés sur les pulls qui n'ont fait qu'envahir les défilés depuis au moins deux ans maintenant, et j'en suis assez content car il faut bien quelques réfractaires, qui ne se plieront pas à une tendance juste pour suivre un plan marketing avide, et qui vont perpétuer l'aspect artistique des créateurs.